Dear wise handy people... What would you do to extract this bolt....

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Submitted by Coronita on October 20, 2020 - 4:43pm

So as part of restoring one of my cars during covid times, I've been repainting my car at home, and for the most part things have been going ok. Some days good some days bad.

I ran into a snag and looking for a creative solution by some of you experts.

Yet again another stuck broken bolt... How would you extract this?

brokenboltbrokenbolt

Drilling is not an option. I need the original thread on the body intact because I need an identical bolt to thread through it, as it's a vital component to a rollover protection and so I can't simply drill out the broken bolt and tap it with a larger bolt. (The bolt is a custom bolt for the rollover protection and not something that easily duplicated)...

Submitted by spdrun on October 20, 2020 - 4:47pm.

File two flats onto the end, apply penetrating oil, heat it with a torch, cool with ice, repeat several times, apply large vicegrips.

Submitted by Hobie on October 20, 2020 - 7:53pm.

Good news flu. This is an easy job with tig. Yep, you get to buy a new tool! :)

Weld a much larger bolt to that stud and after letting some penetrating oil soak you should be able to put a wrench/impact on you new welded bolt and walk it out.

Looks like a trunk lid or a hood. Either way, you have to be very careful about applying high heat as you will warp the sheet metal.

Submitted by Coronita on October 21, 2020 - 4:47am.

Hobie wrote:
Good news flu. This is an easy job with tig. Yep, you get to buy a new tool! :)

Weld a much larger bolt to that stud and after letting some penetrating oil soak you should be able to put a wrench/impact on you new welded bolt and walk it out.

Looks like a trunk lid or a hood. Either way, you have to be very careful about applying high heat as you will warp the sheet metal.

it's not a trunk lid, but it's a bolt that a hardtop and rollbar can attach to.Andnhigh heat will destroy new paint.

I was thinking welder too. Do you have a TIG welder to recommend that won't break the bank? Would a harbor freight flux or arc welder work too? Those are pretty cheap .
I know nothing about welding.

https://www.harborfreight.com/welding/we...

Submitted by Hobie on October 22, 2020 - 10:51am.

.

Submitted by Coronita on October 21, 2020 - 3:46pm.

I was able to get the bolt thread off by jamming two hex nuts together so that I could turn the thread more into the body panel and then it came out once I turned the hex nuts the other way.

Looks like I'll need to postpone getting a welder again..

Crisis averted!

boltbolt

Submitted by gzz on October 21, 2020 - 3:53pm.

I would get a newer car, and also avoid situations requiring rollover bars on my car.

My current car is a 2010 and just developed its first problem: when I run the AC, a purple liquid drips onto the floor of the driver area, sometimes directly onto my right foot.

A general mechanic said he couldn't fix it and to take it to an AC specialist.

I may just get a new car.

Submitted by Coronita on October 21, 2020 - 6:25pm.

gzz wrote:
I would get a newer car, and also avoid situations requiring rollover bars on my car.

My current car is a 2010 and just developed its first problem: when I run the AC, a purple liquid drips onto the floor of the driver area, sometimes directly onto my right foot.

A general mechanic said he couldn't fix it and to take it to an AC specialist.

I may just get a new car.

Nah, I have 4 newer cars, this one is 26 years old and has sentimental value. It was my dedicated race car and I have a history with it. Plus there's one car that I want to order when orders open up again, and I still owe one car to friend that I a lost a bet too (which he thinks I was kidding)...

The story behind this 26 year old car is related to real estate...

You see, back when I use to work at Broadcom, I got a very large stock grant that vested. And I had put the deposit down to pick up a brand new 991 911s in Guards Red. Retail price $125k plus tax. And I was about to go pick it up that week. But a few things happened that week.

1. My insurance agent called and told me my insurance on that car alone would be around $2800/year extra a year on top of what I was paying, and there were mileage contraints of no more than 3000 miles/ year.

2. I came to work and told my boss and my friend what I was getting. And my friend, race junkie said I was crazy to buy a new car and field it for autocross/racing, especially since I was just starting out....

3. My boss, a total diehard Porsche guy that hand built his own race porsche (obviously not street legal) also said, I shouldn't get the car if I'm starting out. He said something about getting a Porsche with a dual clutch transmission was like committing adultery or something like that. I guess he's known as a "purist"....And said that if I got that car I would never ever get a manual transmission car again, and would miss out. (He was right BTW).

4. Real estate friend called me up and says, "hey I got a short sales that might be available for $125k. Are you interested? If you don't jump on it, you're going to regret it..."

So it was the perfect storm... I cancelled the Porsche order, took the money bought the condo for about $132k after closing and repairs, and took $1850 and bought this POS 26 year old car from this nice dentist hygenist so I could learn how to drive a manual gearbox 2 weeks before my first autocross and 1 month before my first track day.

My first autocross, I had the best time ever. You see, while everyone else brought their high powered BMW and Porsche and Audi etc, and had to be careful around the cones, and the potholes at then Qualcomm Stadium so as to not damage their really nice car...Me? I didn't need to give a shit. I was hit cones left and right, drove over potholes like I didn't care, tried to figure out what taking a late apex really means means, spun a few times, went off course a few times, and took out one entire section of cones that probably pissed of the corner workers.. No abs brakes, no traction control, no electronic nanny...And it was a lot of fun. Every single body panel had marred cone marks from hitting something, and I had an excuse to do all of that...Because I was a newbie.... I wouldn't have done that with the brand new 991. I would have driven that like a pansy and gotten a lot slower time and learned a lot less. So this charade lasted a few years longer. That $2000 investment ended being 10 sets of tires, new suspension, new supercharger, new brakes, and a bunch of other things I did that I forgot. I think the total bill came out to around $12k or something like that...and nothing but smiles and fun...

That investment property? Cashflowed positive around 7% with a single tenant until I decided to sell it and do a 1031 exchange for something closer to me... at $315k and change....Meanwhile that 991 911s? Probably retained 65% of it's value.

Throughout these years, I beat the shit out of this car, and it even caught on fire one time. Still survived. I decided to spend some money and restore it, including a new paint job, and straightening the front end bumper frame that came slightly bent when I bought it.

And after that, will put in a full roll cage and a 5 pt race harness, and (something I should have done a lot earlier), and fire suppression system.

One day, hopefully I'll be good enough...one day...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MN8wE-oH...

Submitted by Coronita on October 21, 2020 - 7:26pm.

Btw gzz.. you can do what I did. Rip out the ac. it saved me 40lbs of weight. Gram strategy...

Submitted by gzz on October 23, 2020 - 11:30am.

I'd take out my sunroof first. I read somewhere they add 300lbs. I don't use mine very often.

Submitted by sdrealtor on October 23, 2020 - 1:04pm.

gzz wrote:
I'd take out my sunroof first. I read somewhere they add 300lbs. I don't use mine very often.

You obviously havent seen his Miata

Submitted by Coronita on October 24, 2020 - 10:35am.

Lol. It's not that bad...

It still has both airbags (for now). The dashboard hasn't been taken out (yet). I haven't started drilling holes (yet) into non structural body panels like the trunk floor to further reduce weight.

Plus I did put the door panels back on because they don't save too much weight, and without them, my legs were getting cut up by the sharp metal edges when I went around corners, lol...

I think it's down to 2250 lbs. I need to shave off another 120 lbs after I put in a in a full cage and a carbon fiber hardtop.

Might end up removing the power steering and swapping for a manual rack. Don't really need it. Less things to break.

I likey fun little tinker car. It's a piece of shit, but I never need to worry about where I park and what I hit and if someone hits me (provided I don't die), it's instant insurance money in the pocket.

Submitted by scaredyclassic on October 24, 2020 - 2:07pm.

Coronita wrote:
Lol. It's not that bad...

It still has both airbags (for now). The dashboard hasn't been taken out (yet). I haven't started drilling holes (yet) into non structural body panels like the trunk floor to further reduce weight.

Plus I did put the door panels back on because they don't save too much weight, and without them, my legs were getting cut up by the sharp metal edges when I went around corners, lol...

I think it's down to 2250 lbs. I need to shave off another 120 lbs after I put in a in a full cage and a carbon fiber hardtop.

Might end up removing the power steering and swapping for a manual rack. Don't really need it. Less things to break.

I likey fun little tinker car. It's a piece of shit, but I never need to worry about where I park and what I hit and if someone hits me (provided I don't die), it's instant insurance money in the pocket.

Bicycle nuts obsess over grams on the bike, but often carry 30 extra pounds around their gut. Its the total weight that matters not just the bicycle weight.

At this point, for this car, driver weight might matter. Maybe wear lightweight shoes and lose 10 lbs. Be sure to peepee prior to race . No underwear. Remove watch.

Submitted by Coronita on October 24, 2020 - 2:35pm.

scaredyclassic wrote:

Bicycle nuts obsess over grams on the bike, but often carry 30 extra pounds around their gut. Its the total weight that matters not just the bicycle weight.

At this point, for this car, driver weight might matter. Maybe wear lightweight shoes and lose 10 lbs. Be sure to peepee prior to race . No underwear. Remove watch.

Funny you should mention that. When I have an event. I don't eat breakfast and only eat after the timed event, and pee right before the timed laps. Drops about 15 lbs right there. That's half weigh savings of from switching from a traditional 32 lb lead-acid battery to a 3 lb lithium iron phosphate motorcycle battery. Been there, done that...

morepospixmorepospix

I think I can shave another 20lbs if I switch out the stock brake rotors and calipers for a aluminum wilwood 2 piece kit, plus the unsprung weight savings. Maybe when my brakes need to be replaced..

Clearly, you haven't hung out with miata guys. There's something called the "gram strategy"... (although mazda has taken that to an extreme lately by shipping cars with faulty transmissions...)

Gotta keep the power/weight ratio in check to keep up with the higher powered cars. It's also a bigger advantage around the corners (not so much in a long straight line)...Easier on the tire budget too...

Light, cheap, fast... Pick 2.

Submitted by scaredyclassic on October 24, 2020 - 2:35pm.

Race in just a speedo.

Submitted by Coronita on October 24, 2020 - 2:41pm.

scaredyclassic wrote:
Race in just a speedo.

I was kidding about the 15 lbs.... Probably closer to 7....Can't race in speedos. Too much exposed metal. My legs already get thrashed from hitting the sharp exposed metal.

As long as I can stay around 160ish at 5' 10", I think that's the best I can do...I've tried to lose more, but it's really hard to keep it off.

Submitted by svelte on October 25, 2020 - 10:31am.

Coronita wrote:

I was kidding about the 15 lbs.... Probably closer to 7.....

If you're talking about the difference that eating and "releasing" makes, I think it's closer to 2-3 lbs.

I've tracked by weight carefully, and that's the biggest difference I've seen. My lowest reading is first thing in the AM, after I've visited the bathroom but before I eat.

My weight can be 2-3 lbs higher at other points in the day.

When I got down to 158 lbs, my wife said I looked like I had cancer. I think my ideal weight for my frame is probably around 175 lbs. Unfortunately I'm about 10 lbs over that right now. Damn pandemic.

The heaviest I ever weighed was 199 lbs a few years back. That convinced me to revisit my intake...I never want to be 200 lbs or greater. Ever.

Submitted by svelte on October 25, 2020 - 10:35am.

I had a Miata almost exactly like yours Flu. Except it was 100% stock. First year, no options, just a clean basic fun little car. I bought it from a friend of mine who was the original owner. He was buying a house in Coronado and was cashing out everything that wasn't nailed down to afford it, so I got a good deal on it. His family was mad and thought I paid too little. So in front of his family I made him a deal - if at any point in time he wanted to buy it back, I'd sell it back to him at the same price. I wasn't putting many miles on it so basically it would be the same car he sold me.

He never bought it back. He has since passed away, shockingly.

He got mad at me when I put chrome rings on the rims. I'll never forget that. He wanted it to remain 100% stock.

Submitted by gzz on October 26, 2020 - 3:18pm.

I like the idea of replacing my car's heavy lead acid battery with a light and modern lithium one.

Which model would you get? Probably not economic for mainstream use yet.

Submitted by Coronita on October 26, 2020 - 4:25pm.

gzz wrote:
I like the idea of replacing my car's heavy lead acid battery with a light and modern lithium one.

Which model would you get? Probably not economic for mainstream use yet.

It depends on how much CCA you need. This car can get by with something around 300 CCA give or take, so it's about $150 for a decent Shorai battery. Traditional Lead-Acid battery was around $110, unless I get the Walmart special which would have been around 80. Costco doesn't stock the battery otherwise that would have been the best option.

The biggest issue with the LiFEPO4 battery is you absolutely need to make sure you never run the battery down to completely dead. If you do, that becomes a paperweight pretty quickly. The bigger concern is in modern cars, there's so much electronics that the car is drawing some current even when it's off. So personally, I would only feel comfortable putting this battery in with a kill switch that cuts off the rest of the car's electronic to the battery. I have this in my car, and take the cutoff switch key with me. I don't have much electronics left in the car.

Also, thing about LiFEPO4 batteries is you need to get a special trickle charger for it. You can't use the one for traditional Lead-Acid batteries.

Speaking of battery conditioners...I keep a battery conditioner on all the cars I'm not driving all the time. That does a pretty good job keep the battery 7-8 years.

I have this 4 bank unit (when it was much cheaper and sold directly by AAA)

I also have two single units for the other two cars I care slightly more about...The CTek condition is good and it's small enough to take with you.

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-40-255-Batte...

For the lipo4 battery, the CTEK version you want is:

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-926-LITHI...

And a cheaper version
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCT...

LiFeP04 batteries don't require overnight charging. They charge pretty quick, usually within 1-2 hours. And disconnected from any/all load, they hold their charge very well for a long time.

You don't really need a LiFEPO4 battery unless you really need to save the weight. For a street car, it's unnecessary, I don't have it any of my other cars. If you run heavy electronics in a car, don't do it. For example, if you have a super-duper sound system.... I wouldn't have done it if it wasn't for the extra weight put back into the car with a rollbar and a blower for the motor. Blowers are heavy too. Also not a good financial decision, because it ended up costing more than the car. But they certainly are fun... (installing them, not so fun...)

(Pay no attention to the clear zipties holding the throttle cable assembly from moving and jamming at full throttle. That was only temporary when a bolt came off during a race. It was either zipties or duct tape.... Hey, people laughed, but I was able to finish the day. And besides, its permenantly fixed now.... Couldn't find a replacement bolt, but now I use black colored zip ties that are thicker... :()

I like having shitty cars....I don't know why.

Submitted by Coronita on November 5, 2020 - 1:18am.

New problem. broke a bolt off the trunk lid while trying to reassemble it after painting....

and while trying to remove the broken bolt using vice grips, sheered the bolt nut right off the trunk lid weld points. lol.

so I just bought another tool... Rivet mut tool and rivet nuts...lol.

but hey, even scotty likes them...

https://youtu.be/_BEWRzZFwfk

Submitted by Coronita on November 5, 2020 - 1:21am.

Not bad for $20 from Amazon....

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